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The Sundarbans is the world biggest mangrove forest. It’s not just a mighty jungle, it also the play ground of nature. Thousands of meandering streams, creeks, rivers and estuaries have enhanced its charm. “Sundarbans” meaning beautiful forest in Bengali; is the only natural habitat of the world famous Royal Bengal Tiger, spotted deer, salt water crocodiles, jungle fowl, wild boar, lizards, theses monkey and an innumerable variety of beautiful birds. Migratory flock of Siberian ducks flying over thousands of sail boats loaded with timber, Golpatta (round-leaf), fuel wood, honey, shell and fish further add to the serene natural beauty of the Sundarbans.
For its uniqueness in natural beauty and physiographic nature it has been declared as the world heritage site by UNESCO. The forests aren't just mangrove swamps though; they include some of the last remaining stands of the mighty jungles which once covered the Gangetic plain. Since 1966 the Sundarbans have been a wildlife sanctuary, and it is estimated that there are now 400 Royal Bengal tigers and about 30,000 spotted deer in the area.
The Meaning of the Name
The Sundarbans is the largest single block of tidal halophytic mangrove forest in the world. The name Sundarbans can be literally translated as "beautiful jungle" or "beautiful forest" in the Bengali language (Sundar, "beautiful" and bans, "forest" or "jungle"). But the name may have been originated from the Sundari trees that are found only in Sundarbans in large numbers. Some say its naming may have different origins. They proposed that the name is a corruption of Samudraban (Bengali: "Sea Forest") or Chandra-bandhe (name of a primitive tribe). But the generally accepted view is the one associated with Sundari trees, as its one of the unique characteristics of the forest.
History
Local kings leased the forests of the Sundarbans to the residents of the forest during the Mughal period. The legal status of the forests underwent a series of changes, with the distinction of being the first mangrove forest in the world to be brought under scientific management. The area was mapped by the Surveyor General as early as 1764 subsequently soon after proprietary rights were acquired from the Mughal Emperor, Alamgir II, by the East India Company in 1757. Systematic management of this forest tract started in the 1860s after the establishment of a Forest Department in the Province of Bengal, in India. In 1869 the first Forest Management Division was established to govern the Sundarbans. Under the Forest Act, 1865 (Act VIII of 1865), a large portion of the Sundarbans was declared a reserved forest in 1875-76. The remaining portions of forests was declared as reserve forest the following year and the forest, which was so far was administered by the civil administration district, was placed under the control of the Forest Department. The first management plan was written for the period 1893-98. A Forest Division, which is the basic forest management and administration unit, was created in 1879 at Khulna.
Geography and Weather
The Sundarbans described as a tract of waste country which had never been surveyed and nor had the census been extended to it in 1911. It then stretched for about 165 miles (266 km) from the mouth of the Hugli to the mouth of the Meghna and was bordered inland by the three settled districts of the 24 Parganas, Khulna and Backergunje. The total area (including water) was estimated at 6,526 square miles (16,902 km2). It was a water-logged jungle, in which tigers and other wild beasts are plentiful. Attempts at reclamation had not been very successful. The characteristic tree was the Sundari. It yields a hard wood, used for building, and for making boats, furniture, etc. The Sundarbans were everywhere intersected by river channels and creeks, some of which afforded water communication between Calcutta and the Brahmaputra Valley, both for steamers and for native boats.
It has three main seasons throughout the year. From October to February — winter and cool, March to May — summer, hot and humid, June to September — the monsoon season, wet and windy.
The Beauty of Sundarbans
The Sundarbans is the biggest of its kind. It covers an area of 10,000 sq. km. of which 6000 sq. km. is located at the Bangladesh’s territory. Of the area the forest consists, one third of which is covered with water bodies. And as it’s a mangrove forest and abundance of water the animal & trees characterized in such a way that they can cope with the nature.
The Flora and Fauna
The vegetation of the Sundarbans differs greatly from other non-deltaic coastal mangrove forest and upland forests associations. Differences in vegetation have been explained in terms of freshwater and low salinity influences in the Northeast and variations in drainage and siltation. The Sundarbans has been classified as a moist tropical forest demonstrating a whole mosaic of seres, comprising primary colonization on new accretions to more mature beach forests, often conspicuously dominated by Keora and tidal forests. Historically three principal vegetation types have been recognized in broad correlation with varying degrees of water salinity, freshwater flushing and physiography and which are represented in the wildlife sanctuaries. Sundari and Gewa occur prominently throughout the area with discontinuous distribution of Dhundul and Kankra. Including these plantations, a total 245 genera and 334 plant species were recorded by David Prain in 1903. Since Prain’s report there have been considerable changes in the status of various mangrove species and taxonomic revision of the man-grove flora. However, very little exploration of the botanical nature of the Sundarbans has been made to keep up with these changes.
The Sundarbans is full of wildlife. The management of wildlife is presently restricted to the protection of fauna from poaching and designation of some areas as wildlife sanctuaries where no extraction of forest produce is allowed and the wildlife face few disturbances. Although the fauna of Bangladesh have diminished in recent times and the Sundarbans has not been spared from this decline, the mangrove forest retains several good wildlife habitats and their associated fauna. Recent studies revealed that the Bangladesh Sundarbans support diverse biological resources including at least 120 species of commercially important fishes, 270 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 35 reptiles and eight amphibian species. This represents a significant proportion of the species present in Bangladesh and includes a large number of species which are now extinct elsewhere in the country. Two amphibians, 14 reptiles, 25 aves and five mammals are presently endangered. Of these the tiger and dolphin are main species for planning wildlife management and tourism development. There is high profile and vulnerable mammals living in two contrasting environments and their statuses and management are strong indicators of the general condition of wildlife and its management. The Sundarbans were home to approximately 500 Bengal tigers in 2004, one of the largest single populations of tigers.Blue-eared Kingfisher sighted in the Sundarbans. It is also an important wintering area for migrant water birds and is an area suitable for watching and studying avifauna.
To See and To Do
- Hiron Point: An attractive tourist spot for spotting tigers and other wildlife. You will be amazed by its sheer wild natural beauty.
- Tin Kona Island: it’s another admired spot for wildlife spotting and similar in nature with Hiron Point.
- Katka: A base for safaris, and good spot to see tigers and for bird-watching. Katka is one of Heritage sites in Sunderban. In Katka there is a wooden watching tower of 40 ft. high from where you can enjoy the scenic beauty of Sunderban. A beautiful sea beach is there in Katka; you will enjoy while you are walking to the beach from the watching tower. Verities birds are visible in Katka.
- Dublar Char Island it's an island of fishermen and it’s possible to fish here. It’s a beautiful island where herds of spotted deer are often seen to graze.
- Sundarbans East Wildlife Sanctuary: Extends over an area of 31,227 ha. Freshwater and Sundri dominate scattered with Gewa and Passur with Kankra occurring in areas subject to more frequent flooding. There is an under story of Shingra where, soils are drier and Amur in wetter areas and Goran in more saline places. Nypa palm widespread along drainage lines. All the animals can be spotted in different parts of the day.
- Sundarbans South Wildlife Sanctuary: its similar to the east one, extends over an area of 36,970 ha. There is evidently the greatest seasonal variation in salinity levels and possibly represents an area of relatively longer duration of moderate salinity where Gewa is the main woody species. It is often mixed with Sundri, which is able to displace in circumstances such as artificially opened canopies where Sundri does not regenerate as effectively. It is also frequently associated with a dense understory of Goran and sometimes Passur.
- Sundarbans West Wildlife Sanctuary: its cover an area of 71,502 ha. Containing areas which support sparse Gewa and dense stands of Goran and discontinuous patches of Hantal palm on drier ground and river banks and levees.
- In Sundarbans you can not only visit the tourist destinations, you may also take some break to go to a nearby village to see the life-style of the local people and talk to them to have an insight into their lives. This will give you the knowledge about the local culture and life system.
- You can also go for a shopping in the local villages for some handcrafted articles made by the local people that will be good mementos to bring back home.
Transportation
Safaris are available from Dhaka and Khulna there are safaris organized by many private tour operators, ranging from an overnight trip to a week, and are probably the best way to experience the Sundarbans. It’s possible to organize your own trip from Mongla or Khulna and it will be cheaper, if you're a shrewd negotiator; But questionably worth the hassle. You will first need a permit from the Divisional Forest Office in Khulna. With permit in hand, it's possible to hire a boat from Mongla or Dhangmari to get you to Hiron Point. From Hiron Point you will have to hire a guide to take you into the park.
Day trips from Mongla are boring and avoid that if possible. After negotiating the price of a boat, you'll most likely be taken to Karamjal Wildlife Center, where there are some tame deer to feed and some monkeys, crocs and snakes in cages. But surely you didn't come all this way to see a rundown zoo filled with depressed animals. So you should hire an experienced guide and tell him to go into the forest to get the adventure you crave.
Within the Forest
As the Sunderban is full of small rivers and creeks, you have to rely on boats for visiting all the tourist spots of the Sunderbans. You can also hire your own boat but the charges are pretty steep. However, in case you wish to move around on your own, make sure to hire a guide or else the boatmen may take you for a ride and circle the same place whole daylong. As the waterways of the Sunderbans are so similar to one another that even if your boat makes round of the same place, you won't be able to tell the difference without the services of an experienced guide.
Fees and Permits
You have to get permit to enter the forest. You can get your permit from Divisional Forest Office, Circuit House Road, Khulna. There is a forest office in Mongla, you can apply for permits in there too.
If you are going for commercial photography of the Sundarbans you have to pay a fee to forest officer for permit of photography. Fee for Commercial Photography: Movie Tk. 5,000.00 per role exposed, Video Tk. 4,000.00 per Cassette, Still Tk. 1,000.00 per role exposed.
Communication and Network
The communication is not so developed but there are mobile network available of all the mobile operators of the country. But the network may not reach in deep forest. High speed internet access is available in Khulna and Mongla but other than that it will be very hard to find internet in the island villages.
The beauty of the Sundarbans can’t be described in words. One has to feel it by his/her heart. And surely the adventure one will experience during their visit in the Sundarbans wouldn’t be able to forget will crave to come back to the Emperor of the Mangroves the Sundarbans.
Food and Drink
The best food is to enjoy the delicious dishes made of fresh catches from the water. Some of the lodges also have their own kitchen garden to give the guests a sample of fresh produce. It is wise and advised to carry own drinking water or carry water purifier tablet/liquid drop. As in the forest its may get hard to find drinking water. It’s also near impossible to find alcoholic drinks and if wish to drink alcohol you should bring that with you. But its better not carry any alcohols as it may get you into trouble with the forest officer.
Places to stay
For staying in Sundarbans there are lodges. Go to the hotel page or click here. You will find all the information you need to choose a suitable place to stay at Sundarbans.
Office - (0531) 721111
Residence - (0531) 721122
District Judge
Office - (0531) 720332
Residence - (0531) 724924
Civil Surgeon
Office - (0531) 725286
Residence - (0531) 720731
Sadar Hospital
Office - (0531) 761531-5
Residence - (0531) -
District Jail
Office - (0531) 721335
Residence - (0531) -
